​History of Qaryat Al-Faw

​The city of Paradise

In the South Arabian inscriptions, Qaryat al-Faw is referred to as “Qaryat dhat Kahl”, Kahl being the name of the town’s god, but it was also named:

• ​The City of Paradise (in reference to Dhat al-Jnan) as the palms and greenery must have created a vision of paradise ​in the middle of ​a desolated desert
• The Red City (Qaryat Talu or Qaryat al-Hamra’), probably because of the red clay palaces that stood at the centre of the oasis.

At the beginning of the 1st millennium BCE the frankincense trade roads originating from the ancient Yemeni kingdoms started developing across the Arabian Peninsula. For more than  one and half millennia caravans carried this priceless commodity along two main routes to the major empires of those times: the western one going to the Roman Empire and the eastern one going to Mesopotamia and Persia. If the western route could benefit from the numerous oases watered by the wadis of the huge Sarawat mountains, the eastern route crossed the desolate plateau at the center of the Arabian Peninsula along the largest sand dune desert in the world, the Rub' Al-Khali. It is on this second road that Qaryat Al-Faw developed from the end of the 4th century BCE, as the only major oasis city for more than 1000 kilometers between Najran, in the southwest, and Gerrha, on the east of the Arabian Peninsula.

​An incredibly cosmopolitan oasis

It is unclear when the city was founded and by whom but an interesting aspect of the history of the city is told through the numerous temples that were excavated at the archeological site. The inscriptions they carry and the artifacts found in them show that the remote oasis was well connected with the whole Arabian Peninsula, and all the way to the Levant.

Two of the oldest remains of Qaryat Al-Faw - the temple of Shams and the altar of Aabit - seem to indicate that a city was built around the end of the 4th century BCE. Around the middle of the 3rd century BCE, the Mineans from Yemen, who were heavily engaged in the caravan trade, settled in Qaryat al-Faw and built a sanctuary as an offering to the divinity Athtar Wadd.

Another major ancient oasis of Arabia from where settlers originated is Dedan, capital of the kingdom of Dedan and later Lihyan, located in the northwest of the Peninsula. The Lihyanites that ruled Dedan for at least two centuries left in Qaryat Al-Faw two major inscriptions on a stela and a lintel. And people from the Hanikain tribe, who were also present in Dedan during the first years of the reign of the state of Lihyan, settled in Qaryat Al-Faw at the same period.

During the 1st century BCE, the most important traders of northwest Arabia, the Nabateans, whose most important city in the Arabian Peninsula was Hegra (also known as Maddain Saleh) were present at Qaryat al-Faw at least until the 2nd centry CE.

Another temple excavated in Qaryat Al-Faw showed strong links with Gaza in the Levant, meaning that despite its remoteness it was connected with the Mediterranean world.

The first capital of Central Arabia

During the first two centuries CE two tribes shared the power in Qaryat Al-Faw and their kings bore the name of both tribes with the title "King of Kindah and Qahtan".  During the 3rd century Qaryat Al-Faw endured a series of military expeditions carried out by Sabean and Himyarite kings from ancient Yemen: first Sa'irum Awtar, and later Ilsarah Yahdub and his brother Ya'zul Bayn.

At the end of the third century Qaryat Al-Faw was a vassal city of Himyarite Kings and the leader of the city held the title of "King of Kindah and Madhij", showing that despite the political changes the tribe of Kindah still played a great role. From its capital in Qaryat al-Faw the famous tribe dominated the area of Central Arabia and reached its elevated status at the end of the 3rd and the beginning of the 4th centuries CE.

The power of Kindah, along with the importance of Qaryat Al-Faw, weakened during the 4th century, but still attested to as allies of the Himyarites in the oldest inscription of Wadi Massal dating from the beginning of the 5th century CE. Kindah provided two of the most prominent pre-Islamic Arab characters: Hujr Bin 'Amr, considered as the first king of the Arabs, and his grandson, the famous poet Imru' Al-Qays.

The archeological site

​Water management and ​agricultural activities

It is often said that the presence of such a large city proves that the center of the Arabian Peninsula was once covered with lush vegetation thanks to much more humid weather. But if such a climate existed in the past, it was millennia before the foundation of the city of Qaryat Al-Faw that probably took place in the 4th century BCE, a time when the climate was quite similar to what it is today. Hence the only way for the trade city to thrive was to exploit the underground water, which the population of that time did with great skill.

The twenty wells that have been excavated at the archeological site testify of the capacity of the people of Qaryat Al-Faw to extract water from the ground and supply it to the population and the farms. Today the channels that directed the water to the heart of the oasis where palms, vines and various cereals were grown are still visible. The trunks of palms and other trees were used to make the roofs of the houses, while planks made from local or imported wood were used for doors and windows and household tools, such as combs. Animal breeding was an important activity: the inhabitants owned herds of cattle, sheep, goats and camels, and used their manure to fertilize the fields.

​The ​residential area

​The fact that Qaryat al-Faw was so remote possibly explains why the population didn't feel the need to build any wall or fortress ​to protect it. It was an easily accessible trading town and a staging point for travellers, merchants and pilgrims. ​The residents constructed several large gateways on the north, south and west sides of the town. The building walls were constructed with sun-baked brick but the foundations, tombs and funerary towers were all made of cut stone. The filler used was made from a mixture of plaster, sand, and ash.

All the buildings were characterized by the care with which they were constructed and the thickness of their walls, reaching up to 1.8 meters in width. The doors and house frames were made of wood. Almost all the houses had a floor reached by stairs (the shell of the stairway was used as a storage place and for grinding grain). They were equipped with a system of water supply and outdoor pits for waste. We can also suppose that latrines existed on the upper floor.

​The residential area comprises also the main palace of Qaryat Al-Faw that used to be the residence of the Kings of Central Arabia.

​The market (souq)

The market lay to the east of the residential district, on the west bank of the wadi that separates the Tuwaiq cliffs from the edge of the town. With a length of 30.75 metres running east-west and 25.2 metres north-south, the massive enclosure wall was composed of three parts: the central section built from limestone blocks, and the internal and external facings made from sun-baked brick.

​The temples

​Three temples and an altar have been found at Qaryat al-Faw. ​South Arabian inscriptions have revealed which divinities they were dedicated to​, such as Al-Ahwar, Shams, Athtar, Wadd, and also dhu Ghabat of the kingdom of Lihyan.

​The necropolises

​Artefacts

​The archeological site of Qaryat Al-Faw has provided some of the finest pieces of ancient Arabian art including wall paintings, statues, jewellery, coins, glass, pottery, ceramic,... Some of those unique masterpieces are part of the famous exhibition Roads of Arabia.

How to visit Qaryat Al-Faw

​Tour operators organizing trips ​at Qaryat Al-Faw

Less than 10 kilometers to the west of the city of Abha lies Jebel Sawdah, the most iconic natural feature of Aseer Province. It is the highest place in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Sawdah is in the Sarawat Mountains, a range of cliffs that run along the western coast of the Arabian Peninsula from Jordan all the way to Yemen.

​Moshebah Hills

The road leading to Jebel Sawdah from Abha runs through the hilly landscapes of Moshebah that break all stereotypes a person can have about Saudi Arabia. The landscape is all about mountains and greenery that are the total opposite of the sand dune landscapes, and instead reflect what can be found around the Mediterranean Sea.

The highest point of the area is Sehab park, at over 2900 meters, on the edge of the Sarawat Mountains. This park offers stunning viewpoints over both sides. To the west are the vertiginous cliffs of the Sarawat Mountains, and to the east the terraces that underline the beautiful Moshebah Hills.

​Jebel Sawdah

Jebel Sawdah is the highest point of Saudi Arabia but instead of a sharp peak like the Jebel Al-Lawz in Tabuk Province it is just a low hill lying on a plateau which is already over 2900 meters high.

Unfortunately the top of Sawdah itself is a private area but the parking area at the bottom of the hill already offers breathtaking viewpoints on the impressively high cliffs of the Sarawat Moutains.

​Weather

At such altitudes Moshebah and Sawdah are among the few places were snow can fall. The temperatures in winter are regularly below 5°C even during the day. Another weather feature to expect in this area is the fog that results from the rising hot and humid air coming from the Red Sea, resulting in condensation when it reaches the high lands of Sawdah and Moshebah.

​How to visit Sawdah and Moshebah

​Roads lead to both places but the one to Sehab park is more sinuous and steep so extra caution is advised when raining.

Abha is the capital of Aseer Province and has the 6th largest population in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. It is famous for being the highest large city of Saudi Arabia at over 2 200 meters, some parts of the city being even around 2 400 meters. With such an altitude it is not surprising that Abha benefits from milder climatic conditions that most the rest of the country with day temperatures ranging from 15°C to 35°C.  What is more unexpected is that while the rest of the country has one rainy season in March and May, Aseer Province enjoys a second one in July and August thanks to the Indian monsoon that reaches the southwest of Saudi Arabia.

​History of Abha

Having been fertile for millennia, despite climate changes, and located to the north of the ancient Kingdoms of Sheeba and Himyar, within the territory named by the Romans 'Arabia Felix', which was crossed by caravans for more than a millennium, Abha and the Province of Aseer have a long history. Although there are no remains dating back to those times in Abha itself, some ancient carvings close to Habalah and the archeological site of Jerash just 30 kilometers away are testimonies of this rich past.

In 1918, the Prince of Asir, Yahya bin Hasun Al Ayde, grandson of Ibn Ayed, returned to his family throne and conquered Abha. In 1920, during his campaign to regain the control over Central Arabia, Abd Al-Aziz Al-Saud sent his warriors, known as Ikhwan, to occupy Aseer Province, a situation that was formalized in 1934 with the signing of the Treaty of Taif between Saudi Arabia and Yemen.

Aseer Province was still largely unknown by the west when Harry St John Philby explored it in 1932 but it was only finally no longer a blank spot on the map when he published his observations in 1952.

​Places to visit in Abha

​Abha Museums

​Al-Muftaha Museum

Shada Palace

Jebel Al-Akhdar - The Green Mountain

Located in the southern part of Abha, Jebel Akhdar is a green hill that is around 2340 meters high. It offers one of the best viewpoints over the whole city and its surrounding mountains, as far as the edge of the majestic Sarawat mountains.

A road leads to the top of Jebel Akhdar (a small fee is collected at the bottom) where there is parking and a cafeteria to welcome visitors who have climbed to the top to admire the stunning view over Abha. 

Al-Basta

Shamasan Fort

Ottomans occupied the western part of the Arabian Peninsula, as far as, Yemen from the beginning of the 16th century CE, including Abha. They built several landmarks of the city including a bridge at Al-Basta district and the Shamsan Fort that overlooks the northern part of Abha.

​​Abha dam

With nearby mountains as high as 3000 meters Abha is exposed to possible flooding that is prevented nowadays by a 300 meter dam located on the west of the city. In addition to protecting the population the dam has generated a one kilometer long lake with unexpected and beautiful landscapes in Abha where the blue of the lake contrasts with the city and the green vegetation of the area.

​How to visit Abha

Abha is easily accessible either by road or by plane by. If you want to make the most of it we suggest you go with our guides who will also take you to more enchanting places around the city.